Streaky Bay

28 Sept - 3 Oct 2010

We had arranged a long time ago to meet up with the boys Grandparents, Barry and Debbie, here in Streaky Bay. They have driven with their caravan from the Gold Coast QLD...so between us we have covered thousands of kilometers to see one another!
The boys just love seeing 'Pop and Debbie' and have been very excited to see them again.



Streaky Bay is a pretty seaside town and we are camped right on the beach. There are even a dozen or so lovely pelicans wandering around. We have a fireplace on the sand...if only the weather was a bit warmer it might be perfect!



We drove around the coast to watch the lazy sealions lolling around in the sun..








We have spent 5 nights relaxing here. The boys race up to Barry and Debbie's caravan every morning for breakfast and a tv fix!

This morning we waved goodbye, they are heading west towards Perth, and we really are heading home.

Cazz x


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The nullarbor

THE NULLARBOR

Perth to Adelaide, or London to Moscow? The distance is about the same, and we still have to add another 800km to Melbourne!
The Nullabor is simply one long drive. Very few trees, flat landscape, big trucks and high winds. The road goes on and on, and on and on...
It's takes us a while to figure this out, but all those little towns dotted along this long stretch of road, well they aren't towns at all. There are no houses, no shops and certainly no museums or visitors centers. These town names listed on the map are all roadhouses, and that's all. Each one has petrol, a diner, a drab and lifeless motel, and a sparse camping area where travelers such as us set up for the night, and head off again in the morning. Some are nicer than others, and some even have a playground or a memorial for an early explorer...I can't even imagine how difficult this trip was, when the road was a track and roadhouses didn't even exist!
This playground would never be allowed in our modern safety obsessed cities...it must date back to the 70's...










Saturday 25 Sept
New Norcia to Southern Cross = 380km
(3 hour stop for Grand Final resulting in heart-stopping draw)

Well, what can I say. We spent a few hours in Merredin watching the Grand Final at the local pub. It was probably the most stressful day we have experienced so far..and ended in a draw! I now dread next Saturday when we will have to do it all over again. Come on Saints!

Sunday 26 Sept
Southern Cross to Cocklebiddy = 800km
Oh, it is so cold here, and windy..and even starts to rain.
This camping is no fun.

Monday 27 Sept
We woke this morning to 12 degrees and rain, and for the very first time on our great adventure, I want to go home.

Cocklebiddy to somewhere on the Nullarbor...a few km past Yalata -650km
This section of the trip has incredible views over the Great Australian Bight. We make a few detours to take in the views, and also drive down to have a look at the historic telegraph station, now almost completely swallowed up by the shifting sand dunes..







I have no problems with heights...but these unstable cliffs actually made me feel sick! The drop is about 100m..



We stop at a free campsite just off the highway. It's all bush and dust, but to be honest it's more inviting than the roadhouses we have passed along the way! We have a campfire which is always nice, especially in the cold.



In the morning we pack up early and drive to Streaky Bay, stopping at Ceduna on the way where we visit the fascinating museum, and the local aboriginal arts centre.

Cazz x

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Leaving West Australia

They say it's not over until it's over...but when we start doing long days in the car, heading south and then east...it certainly feels like we are on our way home.
I feel a little heartbroken, party because are heading home, but mostly because we are leaving West Australia, and have loved it so much more than we expected to.
I read this quote on a brochure from New Norcia...
"The only hardship of coming here, is leaving" So true.

Not so long ago we would dread long trips in the car. Actually I remember 2.5 hours being a bit of a benchmark, any further would be deemed too far, too long and way too painful. During this trip we have spent really long days in the car, driven all day sometimes...and you know what, I can honestly say I have (for the most part) loved our long drives.
I love long trips in the car...there, I said it.
The sense of adventure, the feeling of complete freedom, and most of all experiencing just how vast this wonderful country of ours really is...

Friday 24 Sept -Denham to New Norcia = 700km

New Norcia is one of the most picturesque towns we have visited. Australia's only monastic town, it was founded in 1847 as an aboriginal mission and is now home to a community of Benedictine monks. It is possible to stay here in this peaceful place...and live with the monks for a while. The buildings are just glorious, if it weren't for the gum trees you might think you were in Europe somewhere.

The soccer ball keeps the boys busy..


The original orphanage...for aboriginal girls


The monastery..



Cazz x







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Monkey Mia and Peron NP

Today was another huge day...exploring this magnificent region.

Monkey Mia
First stop was the very popular tourist destination Monkey Mia. We arrived just after the first dolphin feeding as we had heard it was less crowded.
We wandered down onto the beach and within minutes several dolphins could be seen heading towards us. It might be a bit touristy...but the opportunity to see these gentle, beautiful animals up close was jut magic. There were about 30 or so people standing in the water while the dolphins played, splashed and frolicked right in front of us. The ranger talked for about 20minutes, giving us loads of info about the dolphins and how the feeding is managed...of course times have changed, the dolphins aren't touched by human hands at all and the feedings are strictly controlled...all to help keep the dolphins safe and healthy.
The boys were mesmerized and pretty happy when a couple of dolphins came up so close, laid on their side...and seemed to be checking us out!





Francois Peron NP

Peron NP has been transformed from a large working sheep station to a magnificent NP. It must have been a huge undertaking to clear not only the sheep, but the many feral animals which have wiped out some native species. A serious looking electric fence marks the entrance to the protected peninsula, a part of the project to reintroduce several native animals.
Our first stop is the original sheep station where we wander around the shearing sheds, shearers quarters and information centre.



The station has relied for years on artesian water which is pumped from deep in the ground, and is a constant 40dgrees. We had a dip in the old water tank/spring fed pool which didn't look too inviting, but was a really nice temperature!



The drive up to the northern tip was slow going. Deep sand and pot holes, but worth the effort. We stopped at one of the camping areas for a swim and some fishing. It was a very hot day so we enjoyed cooling off. You can camp here right on the beach and for a little while I wished we had brought up the camper...but once off the beach we were covered in flies and midges...yuck!



Our last stop was the northern tip of the cape.
Within just a few minutes we were thrilled to see more marine life up close than we would ever have imagined! About a dozen dugongs were lazily swimming amongst the seagrass, a turtle popped up his head as if to say hello, a ray glided by...but the most amazing sight was a whaler shark so close to the shore we could have reached out and touched it, it bit a large fish in half, then spent the next 30 mins or so circling near the shore!

Dugong...


Mr turtle...


Is that a shark??...


We arrived back in denham just before dark, after a very long and enjoyable day.

Cazz x

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Shark Bay

21 sept 2010

Shark Bay is a world heritage listed peninsula and marine park, and is brimming with wonderful places to explore.

Hamlin Pool

Our first stop was 'Hamlin Pool' where stromatolites can be viewed at low tide. These extremely fragile rocklike formations have existed for over 2900million years. By consuming carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, they were largely responsible for creating earth's atmosphere...wow!


This area was once a sheep station. It has been over 60 years since wool carts were driven over the sand to waiting ships but their tracks can still be seen because the stromatolites only grow about a cm every 30 years or so..



Shell Beach

This stunning stretch of beach is covered in tiny cockleshells...so white it's almost blinding! The shells are up to 10m in depth and are quite a beautiful sight. They have been used to make bricks and it is said that nearby Denham was once paved with them.
The wind was blowing a gale...which created an amazing sight as the boys threw them into the air...they looked like snowflakes in the air..







Ocean Park

Still on our way to Denham, we stopped at Ocean Park, a great marine discovery centre. The displays and marine animals were fantastic, but by far the best thing here was the young local guide who talked about each and every animal on show. Not only was he extremely knowledgable (he didn't look old enough to be a marine biologist, but he must have been!) but he had some great stories to tell about his own experiences diving and snorkeling in the local waters, and encounters with various marine life.
Harry has been very interested in all the amazing things we have seen while snorkeling and has recently decided he might like to be a marine biologist!


We had originally planned on camping in Francois Peron NP, right at the northern tip of this magnificent peninsula...but when we arrived in sleepy Denham we quite liked the look of this pretty town. I was still feeling queasy from our boat trip yesterday, and we just didnt feel like driving any further. We found a lovely campsite with water views, and decided to base ourselves here for a couple of days.

Cazz x


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Overnight stops

We haven't had to do too many one night stops...which is lucky. Unpacking and setting up for just one night isn't much fun...having to pack it all back up in the morning isn't either. Before we left I had this crazy assumption that when we were stopping overnight we would stay in a basic hotel/motel room. You know the one - a family room with double bed and bunks, the boys might have to share a bed...that sort of thing.
Well it seems that sort of thing doesn't actually exist. There are no motels on these long stretches of isolated highways. Instead there are 'roadhouses', petrol stations that also have basic accommodation and campsites....and when I day basic accommodation, I mean basic. So we set up our camper and sleep in our roomy and comfortable tent, we pack up bright and early and hit the road.

The campground...'overland roadhouse', middle of nowhere...



The accommodation...each room contains a single bed, and is about the size of a prison cell....tempted?


Cazz x


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Coral Bay...watching the whales

Sept 20th 2010

We packed up this morning, parked the car and trailer and excitedly boarded our boat, hoping to view some whales up close. We have seen dozens of whales out at sea, but really wanted to get a bit closer...and we weren't disappointed.
Our boat took us out beyond the reef where we saw two whales with calves, cautiously swimming nearby. It was just breathtaking to see these huge graceful animals ip close. Two of them passed right by the boat, and we were amazed at just how big they really are...huge dark shadow longer than the large boat we were in!











Just as we we heading in we were lucky to see a huge humpback whale slapping it's dorsal fin, an amazing sight.



We also saw a couple of gorgeous turtles...they are very funny, lifting their heads right up out of the water...then racing off in fright!
A massive ray swam by us too...it must have been over two metres wide!



What a magic day, an experience we will never forget.
We headed towards Shark Bay and Monkey Mia later that same day.

Cazz x

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Coral bay

How could anything named 'Coral Bay' be anything but pretty? This picture perfect seaside town is the perfect stopover for us. A chance to enjoy life's little luxuries, like running water, electricity, cafe's and of course the pristine beach. We had a lovely time here, snorkeling on the reef and swimming in the crystal clear waters.
We managed to watch St Kilda defeat the Western Bulldogs...are are thrilled to be in the grand final...even if this means rearranging our trip home so that we can watch it on tv!
The boys are loving the dunes:











We were booked on a whale watching trip which was cancelled due to wind...this was my own 'must see' so we had to extend our time here just so I can see the whales...see next post!

Cazz x

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ningaloo -cape range national park

13-18th September 2010



Imagine this..

The morning is warm and the sun is shining. I am softly swaying in the dappled sunlight in our hammock strung between the trees. The view takes in the soft sandy beach and turquoise waters of Ningaloo reef. I'm reading my book (Eat, Pray, Love) but I feel as though I could doze off (I have slept for 9 hours overnight, again) listening to the waves breaking over the reef way out at sea. It's all a bit nice...and I don't want to leave here tomorrow.


Our days here have been filled with snorkeling the various beaches and reefs, laying by the beach, fishing off the beach, jumping off the dunes and playing in the sand. The boys have especially enjoyed catching lots of crabs...sometimes by digging down the whole length of their arms...and risking some sharp nips from angry crabs!










The boys are very happy that a family have moved in beside us, with a seven year old son who has a box of Lego!

Cape Range national park extends along the stunning Ningaloo reef. It's so close we can simply swim out with our masks and snorkels to view the amazing coral, rocks, oyster stacks and brilliantly colored fish of every shape and size. Yesterday we snorkeled at a place called 'oyster stacks', and I don't think I have ever seen Harry so excited. He was constantly crying out in amazement and pointing excitedly at a huge blue starfish, a long thin yellow fish, huge multiple colored fish that looked like something out of a childrens picture book...and a large clam shell. We swam through hundreds of tiny fish which glittered and shone, silver and electric blue. It has been a brilliant experience for the boys...to see what is normally only available when scuba diving..and all so easily accessible. A couple of days ago we snorkeled at 'Turquoise Bay' where Grant and I encountered a shark - it was about 2m long and gracefully swimming along in front of us.
Thomas has especially loved snorkeling. He happily swims out on his own to circle the rocks and smaller reefs nearby and yesterday swam out with Grant and I to much deeper water, a good 200m there and back. We didn't buy flippers but might try to get some today!
The campgrounds here are currently completely full. Each campground is at a different section of beach..most with water views, and we are lucky to have some shade as well. We are camped at 'mesa' which is the largest campground with 13 sites. Some of the others have only 4 or 5. Sites here are allocated on a first come first served basis, which means arriving at the entrance to the park before the ranger arrives at 8am. Grant arrived at 5am and was 4th in line! You then have to hope that enough campers are leaving so you can secure a site!

Traveling families.
The longer we travel, the more we are feeling a part of a traveling community of like-minded families, many of them traveling for much longer than we are. Each time we stop we run into at least one other family that we have met before. It might be at the petrol station, the supermarket, the beach or we find ourselves camped right beside a family that we camped with weeks before. The longer we travel, the more families we recognise. Just here at cape range there are at least 5 other families that we have met before...everyone is happy.
We were thrilled to meet up again with Jenny, Stefane, Cal and Charlie. We have enjoyed afternoons snorkeling with them, and relaxing on the beach.



We have once again decided to extend our stay for 'one more day'. We are reluctant to travel any further south where we know it will just get colder, and it is so beautiful here. Our next stop is Monkey Mia and Peron NP. From there we will basically be heading home. We are meeting the boys grandparents at Streaky Bay for a few nights, revisiting our friends Chris and Pamela in Adelaide (if they are home) then arriving back in Melbourne around Oct 5th. The boys will go back to school halfway through the first week, and grant return to work the following week. Ho hum.

Cazz xxx

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Tom Price, and another long day

11th September 2010

(I remember 9 years ago, sitting on my bedroom floor in front of the television, pregnant with our second child...watching the events in New York city in disbelief...and wondering if the world was about to end.)

We knew today would be a long one, and we were prepared. However sometimes things just don't go to plan...
We packed up early and left Karijini at 8am...just enough time to arrive at Tom Price for a tour of the mine. The rain continued throughout the tour, but we really enjoyed seeing all the massive machinery, and learning about the mining industry and how it all operates. This is the third town we have visited that exists purely for mining...which must make them very interesting to live in.















After the tour (still raining heavily) we head off towards Exmouth, another 650km. Because it is so wet we decide to take the longer route along a made road, not wanting to travel in the wet and in in the mud!
The trip is quite easy, and we stop at a basic roadhouse for petrol and a $10.50 bucket of chips. You don't have much to choose from around here, it's at least another 250km until you will see anything much at all.
We are traveling well, and it looks like we will arrive in Exmouth earlier than expected, when Grant pulls off the road to check the tyres...and we have a flat. We were about 100km from Exmouth, it's about 530pm and luckily it's still light.
Now this is our second flat tyre, and we feel much better prepared. The spare is on the roof rack and so much easier to get to...but where is the jack? It's been put back where it belongs...underneath the metal framing which holds our fridge, food tubs...and is packed completely full of stuff. Luckily we have borrowed a friends whiz bang jack, and can get to it easily. Well over an hour later we are still trying to get our massive car jacked up high enough to remove the wheel...but it just isn't happening.
We are also stopped beside a dead kangaroo...the smell is starting to make me feel sick, and eventually we have to move the car along the road just to get away from it. The boys were being fantastic. Playing by the side of the road and keeping out of the way.
Eventually we realized that we would have to get out the original jack...this took some unpacking and maneuvering but we got it out...by now it is pitch black, getting colder...and we are definitely feeling very isolated on a lonely road with absolutely no traffic....it's just us. We are thankful that's it's not a real emergency, manage to keep our sense of humour and finally change the tyre. We arrive in Exmouth at 9pm.
We are staying in a proper caravan park, which we desperately need...showers/washing machines ($5 per load!) and power. We do notice quite a difference in the type of people staying in the bigger caravan parks...lots of retired couples living up north for the winter months. We seem to have created a bit of interest by arriving so late, and in such a mess, so we get lots of visitors the next day, enquiring about our late arrival the night before!
We spent the next day basically getting ourselves sorted out. Tyre repaired, 3 loads of washing hanging in the sunshine, food shopping, car sorted out...and even managed a coffee in town. Dinner at the in-house Italian restaurant...and everything was good again!

Cazz xx



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Karijini photos

The boys had the most exciting time at Karijini...each gorge was a new adventure, slightly dangerous, just a bit challenging...and absolutely spectacular. It is hard to imagine in such an arid place, what spectacular sights are way down below ground level. I often had to leave my camera halfway as we waded through deep water, or balanced along a ledge with high risk of falling in!




















Cazz and boys xxx


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