The dust

Yesterday we reluctantly said farewell to ElQuestro...our life on the ranch has come to an end. We were able to vote at the 'remote pollong booth' so we happy to give the red headed girl our thumbs up.

We drove over 300km on the Gibb River Rd. We stopped for a much needed rest at Ellenbray on the way, famous for their scones (thanks for that tip Sarah Brown!). A lush green oasis in the middle of absolutely nowhere..









The corrugations and rocks are one thing to deal with here in the Kimberley, but let me tell you it's the dust that's the real killer. The car and camper are covered in it, the interior of the car is layered with it and by the end of the day the dust got right into my head. It is embedded in my skin, under my nails, lining my lungs and filling my nose. It settles on your eyelashes, feels gritty in your eyes, and is simply impossible to avoid. Yesterday I felt like screaming...I can't take this dust anymore.

I should add that the dust is sometimes beautiful....just sometimes:







Cazz x

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ElQestro -the sights

Most of the attractions at ELQ are a short drive (often on a rough 4WD track) from the campground. We tried to balance our days here with sightseeing, and relaxing..it's a tough life!

ZEBEDE springs
The thermal waters are an easy walk through rainforest, the waterfalls and small pools the perfect spot to relax:










Emma Gorge

This special place is actually a separate resort, and a short drive back along the Gibb Rd. The gorge was only about a 1.5km walk...over a rocky path, but a relatively easy walk. The gorge is one of the most beautiful we have seen...huge walls surrounding the most serene pool...cool and dark with trickling showers falling from above. The water was actually icy cold -but we had heard about a thermal pool to one side, which the boys found immediately...and sat in for most of the time we were there. It was about the size of a horse trough...and hidden behind a rock face...you can imagine their delight!
I put my toes in the water and had almost decided not to go in...but overheard someone telling her husband (who was refusing to get into the cold water) that she may never get the chance again...I decided she was right, so in I went.
The water was so cold it took your breath away. I swam all the way around the rock walls, gazing up at the tiny droplets of water falling down from high above. I even swam under a low ledge...it was really exhilarating. The water got slowly warmer as I neared the thermal pool...I just managed to squeeze in with the









Saddleback ridge and Branco's lookout

We met another lovely family here...3 kids similar ages to ours, traveling for 3 months...and driving a discovery3 - very rare! We decided to test out the cars on some of the more rugged 4WD tracks...



Oops...always a problem on one lane very steep 4WD roads...this was a tour, so that had to back down the hill!






Chamberlain gorge

Today we hired a boat to cruise chamberlain gorge. We could have joined a tour but liked e idea of being on our own. Once we passed the tour boat it was just us on the beautiful river...which runs through a gorge with steep red and orange walls...to a picnic site at the other end. We discovered something about Charlie that day...and watched in amazement as he steered the boat with little effort (or instruction) around the rocks, stoic and confidently! We won't discuss the other boys efforts...let's just say some 360 degree turns were made!






ElQestro gorge

This strenuous 7km return walk was one of the most stunning gorges we have seen. High sheer cliff face on one side, with lush green ferns covering the other. The narrow gorge must contain a raging river in the wet...when you see flood debris 5 metres above the current trickling stream, and huge trees uprooted, you can only imagine how magnificent this whole place must be in the wet...I would love to see it.





Cazz x


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El Questro (ELQ) The Kimberley, WA

Sunday 8th to Friday 13 th August 2010

Where to begin? How to describe this place...that we fell in love with, stayed for 6 days...but could have stayed forever.
We arrived at ELQ after a few hours on the road, and only a small taste of the Gibb River Rd, one of Australia's few true cattle routes...and a rough and unforgiving road.
ELQ is a million acre former cattle station, now serving the tourists who travel here from all over the world. After the dusty and bumpy drive in, we set up camp in this most beautiful place. Although the campground was fairly busy, it was the whole experience here that we really loved. The endless gorges, rivers, lookouts and 4wd tracks, we loved exploring...and we didn't even see it all.
We camped beside the Pentacoste river, where the boys could paddle and play-there was a store nearby, a bar, restaurant, boats to hire...even a luxury homestead to stay in...for the rich and famous!

The playground..




The swimming pool..



The amenities...your own bathroom with flushing toilet, warm shower and basin....need I say more?



The store and bar...







There is something special about this part of the world. It is harsh, dry and dusty -yet just around the corner, or at the end of an arduous walk, there is such incredible beauty, I can understand the attraction for those who visit here, and never leave.
Over the 6 days we visited many of the local attractions...each one spectacular and different to the last...see next post for more!

Cazz x




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Up up and away...

The decision to have a helicopter ride was a pretty easy one (except for the cost!). A once in a lifetime experience for us all, to see a very special and unique place - from the best possible viewpoint. Thomas and I rode together, while the other two boys and grant were on the second helicopter. The takeoff was very exciting, such a strange sensation tilting slightly forward then just lifting off the ground.
There were no doors on the helicopter so the wind was not only rushing through, but also pushing the helicopter sideways now and then - it all felt a bit flimsy to be honest!
The view over the Bungle Bungle range was awesome. The rock formations, gorges and Piccaninny River looked just stunning from above....almost unreal, it was all so majestic. While the wind was partly to blame, I definitely had tears in my eyes, just being able to witness this special part of the world...and to share it with our boys.
















Grant, Harry and Charlie flying beside us...



Charlie:
The helicopter ride was awesome! The choppers wind was pushing me. We saw lots of rocks.

Harry:
My favorite part was being in the front seat next to the pilot. There were no doors. It was very exciting.

Thomas:
The helicopter ride was totally awesome!! When we went around the first rock it was very windy. We looked at 'the stadium' where drovers used to put their cattle at night.

An experience I don't think we will ever forget.

Cazz and boys xxx


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Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles)

6th August 2010

We had set off by 630 from Turkey Creek, which is only about 50km from the Purnululu turnoff. We stopped to let some air out of the tyres, then off we went! The landscape here is incredible...beautiful, but dry and arid. The ground is covered in a carpet of soft looking spinifex called 'bundle bundle' which is possibly where the Bungles name originated? On closer inspection this attractive ground cover is needle sharp and cannot be walked through...ouch! Even the air here is dry, static electricity giving us little shocks...

Purnululu was only really 'discovered' as a tourist attraction in the mid 1980's, and given world heritage listing in 2003. Of course this place has been important to aboriginal people for over 20,000 years.

We set up camp then headed to the northern end of the park. The temperatures here are cooler, around 25 degrees, but walking in the dry sun feels so much hotter! Today we walked to Mimi Palms gorge, a 5 km walk on a fairly rough track, over boulders and up a steep embankment, until we found ourselves looking down on a beautiful palm filled narrow gorge.
On the way back Charlie and I took a wrong turn (well we actually missed the turn off) and ended up having to walk even further....



We were feeling pretty hot and tired after the walk...and almost didn't attempt the next one. In fact we agreed to just do the start, then head back. The walk through Echidna Chasm took us through a long and very narrow chasm, only 1m wide in some parts..and over 200m high! The boys thought it was fantastic...a natural maze which seemed to go on forever. Needless to say we were glad we made the effort!











Sat 7th August

Today we visited the southern part of the park. Our friends in Adelaide had described their helicopter ride here, so we thought we would stop by the helipad and make some enquiries. The boys were beside themselves with excitement about the possibility of a helicopter ride (and so was I) so we booked a flight for later that afternoon.
We then visited 'the domes' and Cathedral gorge. This part of the park is where the beehive shaped rocks are, with their distinctive red and black stripes. The cathedral was a magnificent, huge gorge, reminding me of a natural myer music bowl. There were several people wandering around ( yet another tour group) when suddenly a man started playing a didgeredoo. The magic sound filled the gorge and every single person stood still and listened with amazement.









Unfortunately Charlie had a nasty fall on a rock and hit his cheekbone...which also filled the gorge with an entirely different sound..

We headed over to the helipad, all ready for lunch and our helicopter flight.

Cazz and boys xx

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Middle of nowhere

Thursday august 5th

On our drive to Purmululu we stopped in the town of Kununurru. A largish town with a supermarket, post office..and even a great cafe! We had to leave any fruit and veggies at the WA border so we were ready to stock up on some food, and have a break from driving. We had also heard that a federal election has been called (go Julia...a woman AND a red head...excellent!) but were disappointed (and more than a little annoyed) to find out that there is no way we can vote...we don't have a fixed address, and we will be in a remote part of the kimberley's on the day.
So we stocked up on food, made some phone calls to family (no phone coverage for me...very sad optus!) and hit the road.

We had gained 1.5 hours once we entered WA but of course this really just meant that it got dark much earlier, and we soon realized that wouldn't make it to the campground (bungle bungles) until after dark...and not knowing the road conditions we decided to stop for the night at a roadhouse on the way. I am seeing a pattern in the personalities of women who work in remote roadhouses...and I don't like it much. It could be that I am generally feeling a little oversensitive after being on the road more more than a few hours...but honestly the rudeness is just awful! When i said i would like to book in for the bbq dinner (as advertised on the door...last orders by 7pm) I was abruptly told that "It's all gone by six" with a sneer on her face...it was about 530 so we made sure we got there as quick as we could.
We set up the camper without even getting our bags out...sleeping in our clothes for the night. Funnily enough the boys all agree that one of their trip highlights was the meal eaten at the diner -it was BBQ night, choice of two meats, salad and chips...we we starving so I have to admit it was all pretty good, covered in salty gravy!
I spent some time in the toilet block (imagine an old shipping container converted to toilets and shower..beside the tiny dorm rooms that the diamond mine workers live in...) charging my iPad and enjoying the unexpected telstra coverage...messaging Sarah Brown with my woes!
We actually slept pretty well...only woken occasionally by the howling dingos and road trains roaring past. We woke very early !(remember that time difference) and were on the road by about 6 am...

Cazz and boys xxx

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Thomas' post

Here is some of my news
ADELAIDE:


.At Adelaide we stayed at my dads friends place
.at their house there was the flying fox of death (that wasn't that scary):)
COOBERl PEDY:


.it was pitch black at night underground,it was great.
ULURU & THE OLGAS:


.I got chased by a dingo
.we did a 10km ride around Uluru & a 7km walk around the olga's
KINGS CANYON:



.At kings canyon a dingo took our rubbish bag.

.At stanley chasm we camped in a car park such fun (not)
ALICE SPRINGS:


.At Alice springs we went to the reptile center I got to hold a bearded dragon see those spikes there not sharp!:)
MATARANKA:


.At mataranka there was refreshing thermal pool! (warm !!!!!!) :)
Litchfield NP:


.The whole family swam over to the big waterfall ! :). It was called wangi falls but pronounced wangi ( wong I )
. At florence falls Dad and I got bitten by fish. They nibbled on our scabs. Ouch! (A.K.A piraña black fish.)
DARWIN:


.At Darwin we went to the super cool awesome mindil sunset markets(they're cool)
.we also went to the FREE water park the Fun-derstorm slide was the best!
- please comment or else (I'l go crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) (really)
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