Mt Hart

15 August 2010

With only just enough petrol in the tank, we headed west towards Broome. We have had to calculate our kilometers exactly, as there is no more petrol until Derby. Unfortunately we also had to bypass Bell Gorge, which we had been looking forward to visiting...but we can't do it all on the petrol we have!
We did visit Galvin Gorge, a short walk off the road to a beautiful swimming hole -we found some rock art as well which I sometimes feel reluctant to photograph without knowing it's significance.






Today we drove to Mt Hart, about 50km off the Gibb Rd. Mt Hart is a former failed (several times over) cattle station. They must have been difficult days, working so hard up here in extreme weather and conditions...only to realize it was never going to work.
The station has been revived and is now a quiet and relaxing place to stay. It has only recently been opened to campers...so the campground was very quiet....great!
The boys loved swimming here in the deep cool river. There was even a canoe for us to use. We spent a few days relaxing here...even joining the other guests for a scrumptious 3 course dinner...there were at least 10 deserts to choose from, and the food was fantastic.








One of our favorite easy meals...pasta!





We enjoyed our time here, it's amazing what a small patch of green grass does for you, after so much dirt and dust.

Cazz and boys

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Quote of the day

"It's an adventure...not a holiday" -family stranded for 3 days by the side of the road into the Bungle Bungles....still waiting for their $2000 tow back to Kununurra.

"Dad, when I grow up I'm going to buy 2 packets of choc mint biscuits every week, and a speed boat!" -Charlie.


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Rations

PETROL
We had forgotten to buy bread from the Barnett River roadhouse on the way to Manning Gorge so I drove the dusty 7km back to get some - frozen bread at most places up here costs $5-6 a loaf. Anyway while I was there I thought I'd double check they were open on Sunday for us to fill up with petrol...remember, this is the only place for petrol for 670km. Her reply? "I'll just check if there's any left" I honestly thought she was joking, and waited for her to laugh...but no, she actually went out the back to check if there was any petrol left!! I waited nervously until she returned with a grim face and told me I could have 40 litres...that was all. I could not believe it. We needed about 65 to fill the car, but had another 40 in jerry cans. She assured me that the tank would be here on Monday 'sometime' but looked as dubious as I felt. So I bought my ration of 40 lts ( this had to be pumped from a barrel out the back, into a jerry can then poured into the car-the only way to measure how much we were getting apparently)...and drove back to camp.
Petrol here is over $2 per litre.

FOOD
As I write this (18 aug) it has been 12 days since we last saw a supermarket. Remember we have very limited space for food...a small fridge, and two tubs for everything else. We were able to buy some things at the last roadhouse, but the fruit and veg was not fresh at all...and very expensive. Yesterday we shared the last apple ($9 per kilo) and today we have finished the bread and eaten our last lot of bacon. We have some cheese slices left, canned food, curry sauce, pasta and sauce and some meat, specially vacuum sealed in Darwin. We have a bottle of soft drink in the fridge, about 4 beers and a bottle of wine. 5 muesli bars and a packet of biscuits. We have plenty of oats for porridge (grants speciality, and special thanks to our Adelaide friends Chris and Pamela, for that tip)...but have run out of brown sugar to put on it. I reckon by the time we arrive in broome we will be be so ready for cable beach resort...and the buffet breakfasts, they won't know what hit them (no doubt they will be a little surprised at our appearance as well...hopefully no-one will look at our feet!)

Cazz x

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Manning Gorge

13-15th August

When we finally arrived at Manning Gorge we were tired, hot and irritable!
We set up camp in the dusty campground, happy to be out of the car and off the road.
There is a pattern to visiting beautiful waterfalls, waterways, rivers and swimming holes up here....nearly each one is a huge reward at the end of a usually long, and sometimes difficult walk. Manning gorge was another one of those long walks...but this one was also very hot, and longer than we expected. The end of this long hot walk took us to a magnificent swimming hole. A huge, deep, cool pool surrounded by black rocks and a trickling waterfall. Once again I can only imagine this region in the wet. We cross over and see so many completely dry river beds...sometimes the banks are metres high...and can picture deep swelling river gushing through them. It must be an incredible sight.
The boys had a fabulous time here...very bravely leaping off a rock ledge about 8-10m above the water. Grant stood at the edge several times, but couldn't find the courage to jump...so I'm not sure how thomas and Harry did it (and not just once of course).
This was the only time I haven't had a camera with me. Our small camera had a flat battery, and my big heavy camera that never leaves my side...was just to big and heavy for the walk today!
We were chatting to another family that we recognised from some other walks over the previous week...and after introducing ourselves and talking about where we were from, realised that they are friends of friends...what a small world!

The beginning of the walk, quite close to the campground, is a fantastic swimming spot...complete with a boat to take you across the river. You can imagine the fun the boys had for the rest of the day...









Cazz x


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The dust

Yesterday we reluctantly said farewell to ElQuestro...our life on the ranch has come to an end. We were able to vote at the 'remote pollong booth' so we happy to give the red headed girl our thumbs up.

We drove over 300km on the Gibb River Rd. We stopped for a much needed rest at Ellenbray on the way, famous for their scones (thanks for that tip Sarah Brown!). A lush green oasis in the middle of absolutely nowhere..









The corrugations and rocks are one thing to deal with here in the Kimberley, but let me tell you it's the dust that's the real killer. The car and camper are covered in it, the interior of the car is layered with it and by the end of the day the dust got right into my head. It is embedded in my skin, under my nails, lining my lungs and filling my nose. It settles on your eyelashes, feels gritty in your eyes, and is simply impossible to avoid. Yesterday I felt like screaming...I can't take this dust anymore.

I should add that the dust is sometimes beautiful....just sometimes:







Cazz x

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ElQestro -the sights

Most of the attractions at ELQ are a short drive (often on a rough 4WD track) from the campground. We tried to balance our days here with sightseeing, and relaxing..it's a tough life!

ZEBEDE springs
The thermal waters are an easy walk through rainforest, the waterfalls and small pools the perfect spot to relax:










Emma Gorge

This special place is actually a separate resort, and a short drive back along the Gibb Rd. The gorge was only about a 1.5km walk...over a rocky path, but a relatively easy walk. The gorge is one of the most beautiful we have seen...huge walls surrounding the most serene pool...cool and dark with trickling showers falling from above. The water was actually icy cold -but we had heard about a thermal pool to one side, which the boys found immediately...and sat in for most of the time we were there. It was about the size of a horse trough...and hidden behind a rock face...you can imagine their delight!
I put my toes in the water and had almost decided not to go in...but overheard someone telling her husband (who was refusing to get into the cold water) that she may never get the chance again...I decided she was right, so in I went.
The water was so cold it took your breath away. I swam all the way around the rock walls, gazing up at the tiny droplets of water falling down from high above. I even swam under a low ledge...it was really exhilarating. The water got slowly warmer as I neared the thermal pool...I just managed to squeeze in with the









Saddleback ridge and Branco's lookout

We met another lovely family here...3 kids similar ages to ours, traveling for 3 months...and driving a discovery3 - very rare! We decided to test out the cars on some of the more rugged 4WD tracks...



Oops...always a problem on one lane very steep 4WD roads...this was a tour, so that had to back down the hill!






Chamberlain gorge

Today we hired a boat to cruise chamberlain gorge. We could have joined a tour but liked e idea of being on our own. Once we passed the tour boat it was just us on the beautiful river...which runs through a gorge with steep red and orange walls...to a picnic site at the other end. We discovered something about Charlie that day...and watched in amazement as he steered the boat with little effort (or instruction) around the rocks, stoic and confidently! We won't discuss the other boys efforts...let's just say some 360 degree turns were made!






ElQestro gorge

This strenuous 7km return walk was one of the most stunning gorges we have seen. High sheer cliff face on one side, with lush green ferns covering the other. The narrow gorge must contain a raging river in the wet...when you see flood debris 5 metres above the current trickling stream, and huge trees uprooted, you can only imagine how magnificent this whole place must be in the wet...I would love to see it.





Cazz x


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El Questro (ELQ) The Kimberley, WA

Sunday 8th to Friday 13 th August 2010

Where to begin? How to describe this place...that we fell in love with, stayed for 6 days...but could have stayed forever.
We arrived at ELQ after a few hours on the road, and only a small taste of the Gibb River Rd, one of Australia's few true cattle routes...and a rough and unforgiving road.
ELQ is a million acre former cattle station, now serving the tourists who travel here from all over the world. After the dusty and bumpy drive in, we set up camp in this most beautiful place. Although the campground was fairly busy, it was the whole experience here that we really loved. The endless gorges, rivers, lookouts and 4wd tracks, we loved exploring...and we didn't even see it all.
We camped beside the Pentacoste river, where the boys could paddle and play-there was a store nearby, a bar, restaurant, boats to hire...even a luxury homestead to stay in...for the rich and famous!

The playground..




The swimming pool..



The amenities...your own bathroom with flushing toilet, warm shower and basin....need I say more?



The store and bar...







There is something special about this part of the world. It is harsh, dry and dusty -yet just around the corner, or at the end of an arduous walk, there is such incredible beauty, I can understand the attraction for those who visit here, and never leave.
Over the 6 days we visited many of the local attractions...each one spectacular and different to the last...see next post for more!

Cazz x




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