Friday, August 20, 2010

El Questro (ELQ) The Kimberley, WA

Sunday 8th to Friday 13 th August 2010

Where to begin? How to describe this place...that we fell in love with, stayed for 6 days...but could have stayed forever.
We arrived at ELQ after a few hours on the road, and only a small taste of the Gibb River Rd, one of Australia's few true cattle routes...and a rough and unforgiving road.
ELQ is a million acre former cattle station, now serving the tourists who travel here from all over the world. After the dusty and bumpy drive in, we set up camp in this most beautiful place. Although the campground was fairly busy, it was the whole experience here that we really loved. The endless gorges, rivers, lookouts and 4wd tracks, we loved exploring...and we didn't even see it all.
We camped beside the Pentacoste river, where the boys could paddle and play-there was a store nearby, a bar, restaurant, boats to hire...even a luxury homestead to stay in...for the rich and famous!

The playground..




The swimming pool..



The amenities...your own bathroom with flushing toilet, warm shower and basin....need I say more?



The store and bar...







There is something special about this part of the world. It is harsh, dry and dusty -yet just around the corner, or at the end of an arduous walk, there is such incredible beauty, I can understand the attraction for those who visit here, and never leave.
Over the 6 days we visited many of the local attractions...each one spectacular and different to the last...see next post for more!

Cazz x




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Up up and away...

The decision to have a helicopter ride was a pretty easy one (except for the cost!). A once in a lifetime experience for us all, to see a very special and unique place - from the best possible viewpoint. Thomas and I rode together, while the other two boys and grant were on the second helicopter. The takeoff was very exciting, such a strange sensation tilting slightly forward then just lifting off the ground.
There were no doors on the helicopter so the wind was not only rushing through, but also pushing the helicopter sideways now and then - it all felt a bit flimsy to be honest!
The view over the Bungle Bungle range was awesome. The rock formations, gorges and Piccaninny River looked just stunning from above....almost unreal, it was all so majestic. While the wind was partly to blame, I definitely had tears in my eyes, just being able to witness this special part of the world...and to share it with our boys.
















Grant, Harry and Charlie flying beside us...



Charlie:
The helicopter ride was awesome! The choppers wind was pushing me. We saw lots of rocks.

Harry:
My favorite part was being in the front seat next to the pilot. There were no doors. It was very exciting.

Thomas:
The helicopter ride was totally awesome!! When we went around the first rock it was very windy. We looked at 'the stadium' where drovers used to put their cattle at night.

An experience I don't think we will ever forget.

Cazz and boys xxx


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Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles)

6th August 2010

We had set off by 630 from Turkey Creek, which is only about 50km from the Purnululu turnoff. We stopped to let some air out of the tyres, then off we went! The landscape here is incredible...beautiful, but dry and arid. The ground is covered in a carpet of soft looking spinifex called 'bundle bundle' which is possibly where the Bungles name originated? On closer inspection this attractive ground cover is needle sharp and cannot be walked through...ouch! Even the air here is dry, static electricity giving us little shocks...

Purnululu was only really 'discovered' as a tourist attraction in the mid 1980's, and given world heritage listing in 2003. Of course this place has been important to aboriginal people for over 20,000 years.

We set up camp then headed to the northern end of the park. The temperatures here are cooler, around 25 degrees, but walking in the dry sun feels so much hotter! Today we walked to Mimi Palms gorge, a 5 km walk on a fairly rough track, over boulders and up a steep embankment, until we found ourselves looking down on a beautiful palm filled narrow gorge.
On the way back Charlie and I took a wrong turn (well we actually missed the turn off) and ended up having to walk even further....



We were feeling pretty hot and tired after the walk...and almost didn't attempt the next one. In fact we agreed to just do the start, then head back. The walk through Echidna Chasm took us through a long and very narrow chasm, only 1m wide in some parts..and over 200m high! The boys thought it was fantastic...a natural maze which seemed to go on forever. Needless to say we were glad we made the effort!











Sat 7th August

Today we visited the southern part of the park. Our friends in Adelaide had described their helicopter ride here, so we thought we would stop by the helipad and make some enquiries. The boys were beside themselves with excitement about the possibility of a helicopter ride (and so was I) so we booked a flight for later that afternoon.
We then visited 'the domes' and Cathedral gorge. This part of the park is where the beehive shaped rocks are, with their distinctive red and black stripes. The cathedral was a magnificent, huge gorge, reminding me of a natural myer music bowl. There were several people wandering around ( yet another tour group) when suddenly a man started playing a didgeredoo. The magic sound filled the gorge and every single person stood still and listened with amazement.









Unfortunately Charlie had a nasty fall on a rock and hit his cheekbone...which also filled the gorge with an entirely different sound..

We headed over to the helipad, all ready for lunch and our helicopter flight.

Cazz and boys xx

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Saturday, August 7, 2010

Middle of nowhere

Thursday august 5th

On our drive to Purmululu we stopped in the town of Kununurru. A largish town with a supermarket, post office..and even a great cafe! We had to leave any fruit and veggies at the WA border so we were ready to stock up on some food, and have a break from driving. We had also heard that a federal election has been called (go Julia...a woman AND a red head...excellent!) but were disappointed (and more than a little annoyed) to find out that there is no way we can vote...we don't have a fixed address, and we will be in a remote part of the kimberley's on the day.
So we stocked up on food, made some phone calls to family (no phone coverage for me...very sad optus!) and hit the road.

We had gained 1.5 hours once we entered WA but of course this really just meant that it got dark much earlier, and we soon realized that wouldn't make it to the campground (bungle bungles) until after dark...and not knowing the road conditions we decided to stop for the night at a roadhouse on the way. I am seeing a pattern in the personalities of women who work in remote roadhouses...and I don't like it much. It could be that I am generally feeling a little oversensitive after being on the road more more than a few hours...but honestly the rudeness is just awful! When i said i would like to book in for the bbq dinner (as advertised on the door...last orders by 7pm) I was abruptly told that "It's all gone by six" with a sneer on her face...it was about 530 so we made sure we got there as quick as we could.
We set up the camper without even getting our bags out...sleeping in our clothes for the night. Funnily enough the boys all agree that one of their trip highlights was the meal eaten at the diner -it was BBQ night, choice of two meats, salad and chips...we we starving so I have to admit it was all pretty good, covered in salty gravy!
I spent some time in the toilet block (imagine an old shipping container converted to toilets and shower..beside the tiny dorm rooms that the diamond mine workers live in...) charging my iPad and enjoying the unexpected telstra coverage...messaging Sarah Brown with my woes!
We actually slept pretty well...only woken occasionally by the howling dingos and road trains roaring past. We woke very early !(remember that time difference) and were on the road by about 6 am...

Cazz and boys xxx

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Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Thomas' post

Here is some of my news
ADELAIDE:


.At Adelaide we stayed at my dads friends place
.at their house there was the flying fox of death (that wasn't that scary):)
COOBERl PEDY:


.it was pitch black at night underground,it was great.
ULURU & THE OLGAS:


.I got chased by a dingo
.we did a 10km ride around Uluru & a 7km walk around the olga's
KINGS CANYON:



.At kings canyon a dingo took our rubbish bag.

.At stanley chasm we camped in a car park such fun (not)
ALICE SPRINGS:


.At Alice springs we went to the reptile center I got to hold a bearded dragon see those spikes there not sharp!:)
MATARANKA:


.At mataranka there was refreshing thermal pool! (warm !!!!!!) :)
Litchfield NP:


.The whole family swam over to the big waterfall ! :). It was called wangi falls but pronounced wangi ( wong I )
. At florence falls Dad and I got bitten by fish. They nibbled on our scabs. Ouch! (A.K.A piraƱa black fish.)
DARWIN:


.At Darwin we went to the super cool awesome mindil sunset markets(they're cool)
.we also went to the FREE water park the Fun-derstorm slide was the best!
- please comment or else (I'l go crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) (really)
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Location:Top secret

Leaving the Northern Territory

Tuesday 3rd August

We are slowly losing track of time..often asking, "What day is it today?"...and even mistakenly telling Charlie it was the first of August (his birthday month) when it was actually the second. So I have jut checked my trusty iPhone calendar to discover today is the 5th of August already. We are traveling in the car for hours...which is a good time for me to catch up on the blog.

So on Tuesday we had a quite day at camp. We had planned on doing the longer hike to the top of Twin falls, which would have been beautiful, but my back has started playing up again..so we decided to rest instead. The day was spent laying around the empty campground...Grant even ground up some rocks for the boys to try out some traditional painting techniques. We also emptied out the car and repacked all the boys stuff...including an amazing collection of (very important) sticks, rocks, stones and seed pods.




mozzie bites...





Wednesday 4th August
We packed up, tidied up, and set off to explore a little more of Kakadu today. Cooinda waters is a busy tourist spot, and for good reason. The wetlands here are teeming with birdlife...and I was sorry that we didn't have time for the 'yellow water cruise'. We did walk along the boardwalk and saw many water birds..not that I'm a bird expert (or bird photographer according to grant...when I mentioned that I needed a longer lens!) but it really was a spectacular sight...and good reason to plan a return trip one day.












We waved goodbye to Kakadu and traveled onto Edith falls near Katherine. We had planned to drive to Katherine for an overnight stop, but the campground looked too inviting, so we set up camp here for the night. Edith falls is another spectacular waterfall, another spectacular swimming hole...another spectacular sight...I think we are being spoilt with spectacular sights! We walked to the top of the falls for a swim. Thomas enjoyed getting right under the waterfall where he says it was hard to breath because of all the water.



Today Thursday 5th august
We have just arrived in Kununurra...we will stop here for lunch and food shopping...and hopefully I will upload this post as well...



Cazz and boys xxx

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Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Mozzies and Mum's undies

Post by Grant/Dad

Friday was spent getting a roof rack and tray for the car and picking up the new rim and tires for the next lot of 4wding

We then headed off for Kakadu. We didn't leave Darwin till about 3 and decided to stop in Mary River national park, to see the wet lands and billabongs around there. Plus I'd been assured by a mate who'd live round there that there were the biggest crocks he'd ever seen - " hang on to your kids" was his sage advice.

So we arrived a little late at Point stuart wilderness park which sounded a bit posh. It had a bar and a pool, Yippee. It all went downhill from there.

I paid the bill and had a sneaky beer at the bar, while Cazz and the boys walked down to check out the camp site. I'd quizzed the young girl at the bar as to why it was so quiet, and she plausibly explained that the fishing wasn't that great as yet and things will pick up in the next couple of weeks. I arrived at the selected camp site a little amused to see the boys and Cazz running around waving their arms in the air. There were mozzies swarming everywhere. Not just a couple of mozzies but hundreds of the little biters in a grey blur all around any exposed part. We broke out the bushman deet based repellent - the stuff that has a warning about long term use causing damage to children and it makes your lips numb. This with a couple head nets allowed us to get the tents up.

We then ran for the pool with nice piece of butterfly pork to BBQ for dinner. Problem with the pool was it washed off the bug spray and as soon as you put your head above the water the mozzies started swarming and biting. The trick with mozzies is they dont fly that fast so if you run around like a loon, waving your arms everything is ok. Pretty funny to watch us running around the pool, swatting and splashing to keep the mozzies away.

Anyway bbq and off to bed. All three boys slept in the one tent (I'd bought a 3 man all gauze tent in darwin which tonight was going to act like one of those square fly nets you put over your food to keep the flies off, but tonight it was to keep the mozzies from their prey. The tent was also a bit cooler than the trailer tent, which was necessary given the temperature at night was still staying above 30.

Cazz and I slept in the trailer tent, staring at the roof, sweating and having trouble sleeping when about 1am Harry comes in screaming that he is being eaten alive. We calm him down and put him to sleep at the end of our bed. I figure that there must be some mozzies inside the boys tent and hoping it might be cooler I head off to kill me some bugs and hopefully get some sleep with Thomas and Charlie in the cooler tent.

The boys had pitched some 20 meters from our site. Oddly enough we were basically the only people camping at this place. As I approached their tent the sound of buzzing mozzies became disturbingly loud. The entire tent was covered in mozzies either siting on to gauze, buzzing around, or perched on the tent poles, trying to get in, fanatically surveying the delicious morsels in the tent.

I had to beat the gauze, run winder-shins around the tent and spray bug spray everywhere just to get in. Sitting in the middle of the tent (both boys still asleep!) slightly out of breath I turned on the torch to look for the mozzies that had got into the safe haven. There was about 5 blood filled mozzies. Remember I had to frantically spray the tent to get in, well I'd used it all up. Bugger! Trying to swat mozzies against a tent wall is like trying to nail water. So I resorted to mid air intercepts, I felt like karate kid with hands instead of chopsticks. Anyway I managed to wake up Thomas in the process. He was ok but a look at Charlie revealed about 20 bites on a small circle on his forehead, and similar number on top of his legs and arms, areas that hadn't had mozzie spray on earlier.

Curiously, Thomas was nude! I'd sort of lost my sense of humor by now and demanded to know where were his jocks and singlet (hot weather sleeping attire of the Turvey boys). He'd taken off his singlet and shoved it in the junction of the zippers on his side of the tent. This was pretty smart and probably reduced the mozzies inside, the problem was that the other boys hadn't done the same thing on the other side and the frantic little buggers had snuck through .

As for jocks, I knew that Cazz had taken some up for him and I demanded that he put them on, as I wasn't sleeping with a nude kid. Thomas was having none of it. The conversation at about 2 am by this stage wasnt very coherent, and somewhat tense. I was struggling to understand Thomas' resistance to putting on jocks and he was having trouble explaining his problem with anything but complete nudity.

"put them on"!
"But Dad your not listening"
"too right, I'm not sleeping with you in the buff!"
"I don't want to wear these Jocks"
"I want you to, it's a perfectly reasonable request"

Eventually I had a closer inspection of the disputed jocks and the problem became apparent. In the fracas of avoiding mozzies and getting everyone to bed, Cazz had given Thomas a pair of her bloomers. We had a bit of a laugh and I gave in, you can't expect a young man to wear his Mums jocks. We shoved Mums undies in the other zipper, Thomas slept nude promising to stay on his side, and I tried to sleep in the heat, with the sound of swarming mozzies complemented by the odours of a boys tent (ie musty, stinky feet and the faint sent of urine).

Cheers

Grant






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Location:Mary river national park